Tree Philodendron

Tree Philodendron — Care and Troubleshooting

Tree Philodendron, sometimes sold as Selloum, is a self-heading philodendron, meaning it grows a single upright, thickening stem rather than vining or climbing the way heartleaf philodendron or pothos do. Over years, this stem develops a genuinely trunk-like, semi-woody appearance with visible leaf scars, and the plant's enormous, deeply lobed leaves can eventually spread several feet across, making this one of the largest common philodendrons available for indoor growing and a plant that genuinely needs floor space to reach its full potential.

A Different Growth Habit Than Most Philodendrons

Unlike the trailing or climbing philodendrons most people are familiar with, this species grows as a rosette from a thickening central stem, with older lower leaves naturally yellowing and dropping as new ones emerge from the crown, gradually raising the visible growing point over time similar to how a palm's trunk lengthens. This natural leaf drop from the base is routine and not a cause for concern on an otherwise healthy plant, distinct from problem-related yellowing that affects leaves throughout the plant rather than just the oldest ones at the bottom.

Light, Watering, and Space

Bright, indirect light supports the fullest, most vigorous growth, though this species tolerates a somewhat wider light range than more finicky philodendrons. Let the top two inches of the mix dry out between waterings, which on a plant this size in a large pot can mean a week or more between waterings once it's established. As the plant matures, it also develops substantial aerial roots, thick, often reddish-brown roots emerging from the stem above the soil line, which can be tucked into the pot, allowed to grow into a display feature, or trimmed if unwanted, without harming the plant either way.

Common Problems

Yellow leaves: Often simply the oldest, lowest leaves naturally aging and dropping as the plant grows, though widespread yellowing across many leaves at once more likely points to overwatering.

Drooping: Usually from underwatering given this plant's fairly substantial water use as it matures, though overwatering-related root stress can cause a similar appearance.

Root rot: A mature specimen's root mass is large enough that rot can set in in one section of the pot while roots elsewhere still look fine, so if the plant seems off despite normal-looking soil, check several spots around the rootball rather than just the center.

Spider mites: Common on the large leaf surface in dry indoor conditions, particularly during winter.

Slow growth or small leaves: Often reflects insufficient light or an undersized pot relative to the plant's increasing size as it matures over years.

Juvenile vs. Mature Leaf Shape

A young Tree Philodendron's leaves start out simple and only shallowly notched, quite different from the deeply, dramatically cut, almost feathery leaves associated with mature specimens; the lobing becomes progressively deeper and more elaborate with each new leaf as the plant ages and its stem thickens, a gradual transformation that takes years rather than months. New owners sometimes worry a young plant with relatively plain, barely lobed leaves has been mislabeled or is unhealthy, when in fact it's simply displaying entirely normal juvenile foliage that will change shape as the plant matures — nothing about care needs to change to encourage this transition, since it happens automatically with age and continued healthy growth.

Eventual Size and When to Plan for It

This species has one of the largest eventual footprints of any commonly sold houseplant in this price range — mature specimens in optimal growing conditions can reach six feet or more in both height and spread indoors, with individual leaves exceeding two feet across, dimensions that catch many buyers off guard since the small nursery specimen typically sold gives little indication of the scale it will eventually reach. Because the thickening trunk-like stem and expanding root system make Tree Philodendron increasingly difficult to relocate or divide as it ages, it's worth choosing its permanent position with real long-term space in mind rather than treating early placement as temporary, the way one might with a smaller, easily-moved plant.

Outdoor Growing in Warm Climates

Gardeners in USDA zones 9 through 11 often grow Tree Philodendron outdoors as a permanent landscape plant, where it reaches an even larger scale than is typical indoors and can develop the aerial-root-supported sprawling form seen in its native Brazilian and Paraguayan habitat. Indoor specimens moved outdoors for a summer season in a shaded or bright-shade spot often show a noticeable growth boost from the increased light and humidity, provided they're gradually acclimated to outdoor conditions rather than moved abruptly, and brought back indoors before nighttime temperatures drop toward the plant's cold tolerance limit.

Aerial Roots: What to Actually Do with Them

The thick, often reddish-brown aerial roots this species produces from its stem as it matures serve the same function in the wild as the smaller aerial roots on a climbing philodendron — anchoring and moisture absorption — but on a self-heading, non-climbing species like this one they have no structure to climb, so they typically arc downward and either root into the soil of the same pot or hang loose in the air. Some growers direct them into the pot deliberately, which can help support an increasingly top-heavy mature plant and gives the roots a job to do; others prefer the sculptural look of the roots left untrimmed and hanging. Trimming aerial roots close to the stem doesn't harm the plant if the look isn't wanted, since they're supplementary rather than essential to the plant's main root system, though very large, established roots may bleed a small amount of sap when cut.

Confusion with Monstera at the Nursery

Because young Monstera deliciosa and young Tree Philodendron are both sold as compact plants with lobed or fenestrated leaf shapes and are frequently displayed near each other, mislabeling and buyer confusion between the two is common enough that it's worth checking a plant's tag or leaf pattern carefully before assuming which one has been purchased. A reliable distinguishing feature: true Monstera leaves develop actual holes (fenestrations) within the leaf blade as they mature, while Tree Philodendron leaves become deeply lobed and feathery around the edges but never develop internal holes — the cutting pattern stays connected to the leaf margin rather than perforating the middle of the leaf.